A Big Disappointment

Ahh.. The ups and downs of life on the trail. Highs and lows. Achievements and disappointments. You'd think I'd be used to them by now but today really bummed me out. 

I'm not going to get to do the Four State Challenge. It just wasn't going to work out. Mostly due to this damn tropical depression (one news source mentioned Hurricane Joaquin - not sure if it was referring to the same storm). I've been getting pounded by rain for two days now and all my gear is soaked. 

As some of you know, the plan was to camp at Pen-Mar Park right at the PA/MD border (hence, the name) and to start early in the morning. Well, I arrived there today in the (still) pouring rain. There were 'day use only' signs everywhere and no where really to stealth camp (not even for the King!). Half the park was flooded with big puddles. There was a pavilion that I thought about camping under but I had seen notes earlier in a shelter journal that a caretaker routinely visits that pavilion and even busted some hikers for sitting on top of the picnic tables. Ideally, I would have found a dry, quiet place to camp, got a good night's sleep and got up at 4am for a 5am start time. None of that was going to happen. Plus, in this kind of rain, you can't even take out your map or your phone to make sure you're headed the right way. That also means no pics or videos to document the experience, either. Standing in the rain, soaking wet, staring at the sign for the Mason-Dixon Line, I had to make a decision. "Maybe some other time." I told myself. "This is just not the year to make this happen."  

I put my head down and kept hiking, feeling the sting of not just trying and failing, but not having tried at all. I almost turned around a dozen times but I knew that the same obstacles would still be there. I did get a break from the rain this evening and a chance to set up my tent here on the banks of Litttle Antietam Creek. 

Trying to look for the positives, at least I'll be able to spend some time in Harper's Ferry, WV, one of my very favorite trail towns. The Four State Challenge had me blasting right through there, probably at night. I'll remind myself to see the beauty in all kinds of weather - even the rain - and that these are the kinds of experiences that I'll remember most. 

I give thanks to everyone who wished me good luck on the challenge. Especially those of you who have been sending me care packages and good will. I'm going to continue to hike south, knowing that this rain has got to eventually give way to sunny skies. I'll dry out my boots and all my gear and smile at how much lighter it feels. I'll take the good with the bad and remember that if I'm lucky enough to be on the trail, then I'm lucky enough. 

Still The King?

This is not good. 

I'm stealth camping in Palmerton, PA and I'm gonna get busted. Here's why:

The morning started off great. I had been hiking all day in the rain with a guy and his 11 year old daughter (DR and Baby Blue). They were loads of fun and their joy of hiking was infectious. They made the heavy rain and our soaking wet packs seem like not such a big deal.  We camped together at night and enjoyed some great conversation in the morning. They got going earlier than I did so I hiked alone today. 

The trail took me across a 'Superfund Site'. This was an entire hillside that had been decimated by zinc mining in the early 1900's. The whole area had a weird vibe to it with fences and warning signs everywhere. It put me in a funky mood. 

Then the trail twits and turns down the side of a very steep, rocky mountain and spills right out onto a super-busy highway (with no shoulder) that leads 1.5 miles into the city of Palmerton. There are plenty of hiker services here but they are very spread out. It was a long walk to the Dunkin Donuts to get a cup of coffee, an outlet to charge my phone and a wifi signal. 

Today is Sunday so I can't get my re-supply box from the post office until tomorrow morning. Usually, this is no problem. I just find a place to stealth camp on the edge of town, hit the post office in the morning and get back to the trail. The problem with Palmerton is that there is no where to camp! People who know me know that I have an eagle-eye for great stealth camping spots but nothing here was looking good. I ended up hiking out to the edge of town and finding a spot on the banks of the Aquashicola Creek. 

The vibe here is not good. I can hear lots of cars passing by and several people have walked past and seen me already. This makes for poor stealth camping but there really is no where else to go. I dare not hike the deadly highway back out of town because I'll just have to come back in tomorrow morning. 

If I get busted - that is, if I'm asked to leave - I certainly will but that will ruin my streak of never having been caught. I will lose the title of the 'King of Stealth Camping'. 

The question for the reader is: When is the last time you slept anywhere that wasn't on a comfortable bed behind a locked door? Leave a comment below and describe.

I'll post again to let you know how it turns out. 

Good Lord my boots stink. 

Good Intentions

I want to write a post about a small market I happened to come across during my 2011 thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail (AT). Back then, the store was called 'Joe To Go' and it was on the south side of where the AT crosses (the very busy) State Road 206 in New Jersey. It was kind of a cool little shop. There was an old guy behind the counter serving greasy breakfast sandwiches and burgers. Back then, they weren't exactly known as 'hiker friendly'. Back then, a breakfast sandwich was $4. Back then, I stopped in, felt the unwelcoming vibe and immediately went back to the trail.

Recently, the store was bought by an older guy who re-named it Sunrise Appalachian Trail Deli. 

His intention, it seemed, was to cater specifically to AT hikers. That to me, is a great idea and it fills me with gratitude. He wants to help hikers! He started carrying some hiker supplies (Ramen noodles, Cliff bars, canister fuel,  etc... ) and he put out a notebook for hikers to leave recommendations on what products they thought that he should carry to better serve the hiking community. More great ideas!

The comments left on Guthook's app and in the shelter journals along the trail were all very positive. Everyone said how 'hiker friendly' this place had become and how hard the store was trying to attract and accommodate hikers. I can't wait! I thought to myself, to spend some (of my very little) money here and to show them how much I appreciate that they appreciate hikers. 

But the attitude with which I was welcomed left much to be desired. The guy who actually ran the place, day to day, you see, was not the guy who bought the place. The guy who ran the place had a different perspective entirely. He was the one who came in early every morning. He was the one who made the sandwiches and the burgers. His pay, I learned later, was based on how well the store did in overall sales. 

He wanted to sell cigarettes, lottery tickets and energy drinks. He wanted to have a big cooler full of ice for the tourists. But the new owner would have none of it. "Those things are poison!" the new owner exclaimed, "And those aren't the kinds of things that hikers need."

Back to the guy who had to work there everyday. He was not so hot on hikers. He didn't like it that they sometimes brought their packs (all smelly and dirty) into the store despite the obvious signage telling hikers to park their packs on the bench outside. He didn't like it that they complained that he didn't have wifi or group seating. And he really didn't like it when one of them stole the money out of his tip jar. 

The guy mentioned that the owner wanted to start accepting re-supply boxes for hikers. I had to warn him that hikers get really uptight about their re-supply. If a box isn't there when it's supposed to be, they freak out. Worse, they won't move on until they get that box and will literally camp near that business until that box comes in. They will check dutifully twice a day, every day because they literaly can't keep hiking until they get the food, fuel, maps, etc... that come in those boxes. 

My point is that thru-hikers are a tough bunch to handle. They are often strapped for cash and looking to get the very most for their few dollars. I hate saying it because it's trite but true about any small group: A few bad apples. Most of us want to support a business that welcomes hikers. We want to leave a good impression. 

My hope is that hikers, as a group, will get their shit together and respectfully patronize businesses that welcome us and that more business owners will recognize that hikers want to spend their money at stores like the Sunrise Appalachian Trail Deli. 

Speed on the AT

If you call the Appalachian Trail Conservacy and ask them what the northbound speed record is for the trail, they will tell you that they do not keep such records. That 'racing' from one end of the nearly 2,200 mile to the other isn't in the 'spirit of the trail'. Indeed, when Benton MacKaye designed the trail in 1921, he never intended it to be hiked all at once (thru-hiked). But ever since Earl Shaffer became the first to do so in 1948, people have compared how long it took them to hike it. Naturally competitive Americans started doing it faster and faster and now use websites like Fastest Known Time to keep those records. 

I was thrilled to meet Scott Jurek near the Maine/New Hampshire border as he set the record for the fastest supported northbound thru-hike at 46 days.  Currently, the woman I consider to be the greatest long distance hiker in the world, Heather 'Anish' Anderson is out here trying to set the southbound unsupported speed record. 

Even I might attempt the Four State Challenge. This is an informal challenge  to hike across four states (44 trail miles) in 24 hours. While not nearly the feat that Jurek and Anderson are up to, it's still an example of a competition or a race on the trail. For me, a southbounder, I would start in Pennsylvania, just above the border with Maryland (which also happens to be the Mason-Dixon Line). I would hike across Maryland, through West Virginia and into Virginia within 24 hours. Why would I do this? I'm a competitive American, of course!

Is all this competition good for the trail? Not everyone thinks so. The management at Baxter State Park, home of Katahdin - the northern terminus of the trail, don't want to see their park commercialized or otherwise exploited. They made that clear when the issued three big fines to Scott Jurek for stretching the rules when he reached  the summit of Katahdin. There's talk that they don't even want the AT running through Baxter State Park at all. Someday, the trail may have to be rerouted. 

I'm curious what people think about speed records on the Appalachian Trail and about me taking a shot at the Four State Challenge. I'm hoping to attempt it at the end of September. If anyone wants to join me - to hike all or part of the 44 miles with me - or just to cheer me on and maybe slack pack me - just leave a comment below. 

Just Plants

I'm not a botanist. I don't know much about plants. Still, I see a stunning variety of them out here and I think they're beautiful. 

These were in front a house in Yarmouth, ME. Azaleas, right?

No idea what these are. 

Some kind of mushroom. 

Also a mushroom. Looks like a flower buy it's not. I think. 

Mushroom as big as my hand on the side of a tree. 

No idea. 

Still no idea. 

Lots of these. 

This isn't a plant. It's a slug. 

Pitcher Plant? I think? Found them in a swamp. 

Same thing. Pitcher Plant?

I'm sure that was boring. 

If you leave a comment, you're a total nerd. 

Pics from the AT 2015

Me in peaceful, idyllic Yarmouth, ME three days before I started the hike. 

The Royal River in Yarmouth. So charming. A nice, easy walk to stretch out my legs after two days on the Greyhound. 

This is the school where my buddy Hee Haw teaches music (guitar and mandolin). That's him jumping in on the upright bass during an impromptu jam session on the porch. 

Well? Do ya?!

This is Hee Haw (on guitar) with his band, the Jerks of Grass. I got to watch them whip the crowd into a frenzy in a really cool bar in Portland, ME. 

And drink really good beer. 

Finally! The day is here. Hee Haw and I stayed a night with his dad and drove to climb Katahdin early in the morning. 

That day was so great. Hee Haw has been up there so many times before that I literally got a guided tour of Katahdin. We did a 16 mile loop and had perfect weather for every step. 

Hee Haw and I at the summit. Last time I stood here was July 20th, 2011. 

Katahdin from a distance. They don't call it Mt. Katahdin because 'Katahdin' means 'greatest mountain'. It would be redundant. 

The next morning, Hee Haw sent me on my way. In the rain. In the cold, pouring rain. Felt like I was home again. 

So I hiked south through the 100 Miles Wilderness. Took me nine days. 

Had to ford a ton of rivers. See that tiny white blaze on the tree across the river?

See?

I finally made it to Monson, ME and was rewarded with a plate of fries from the owner of the Lakeshore House. She remembered me from 2011. 

From there, Hee Haw's dad, Donald, and his delightful girlfriend, Debbie, picked me up and took me home with them. They fed me, let me wash up and get a good night's sleep before taking me back to the trail the next day. I really enjoyed my stay with them. 

This seems a good place to stop. Still working on posting from my phone so we'll see if this works. If you like the pics, leave me a comment below and I'll post more. 

Work For Stay

The barter economy can be a beautiful thing. It's a market that removes the root of all evil from the transaction. Its prevalence in the long distance hiking community sits well with me.

'Work for stay' is a fine example of how hikers embrace the barter economy but to give you a good example, I have to first describe the 'hut' system used in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. The Whites are beautiful. Some of the best hiking in the country. Every summer, thousands of people want to hike these trails but they are very remote and thus, hard to get to. These trails also cross rare alpine and Forest Protection Areas so you don't want thousands of people stomping around and camping everywhere. The solution is a system of primitive buildings up in the mountains where people can stay overnight. These are the 'huts'. Kind of a cross between a hotel and a bunkhouse, they only offer the basics: a dinner served 'family style', a bunk bed for the night and breakfast the next morning. These huts are run by the Appalachian Mountain Club and staffed by college kids for the summer. The huts are not cheap: It can cost up to $150 per night for a peak-season, non-AMC member guest. There are no showers, no electricity and you have to pack out your own trash. They sell out every night during the summer. Why does someone pay $150/night for a basic meal and a bunk? Location. These huts make all the best trails and mountain peaks accessible.

Unfortunately for the poor AT thru-hiker, you cannot camp above treeline forcing you to either get back down off the mountains (and off the trail) or stay at the huts. But what hiker can afford $150/night? Luckily, the AMC and the young adults that staff the huts sometimes offer WFS (Work For Stay).  Here's how it works (or, at least, this is how I do it):

I try to get to the hut at around 4pm. Any earlier and they'll probably tell you to keep hiking. Any later and you risk not getting a spot. They can only offer WFS to a few hikers each night. I park my backpack outside (as is customary before entering any place of business) and ask for the 'Hut Master'. This is the person in charge.

Me: I am Wolverine. I'm a SOBO thru. I understand that you sometimes offer WFS to grateful and hard working hikers.

Hut Master: We do.

Me: My body is sound and I have a strong work ethic. Would allow me to WFS?

Hut Master: We'll see. Bring your pack in and have a seat. I'll let you know.

If you get the opportunity, here's the deal: You may have to help prepare and serve dinner or you may have to clean up afterward, do dishes, sweep... Basically, what ever they tell you to do. In exchange, you get to eat any leftovers from the paying guests and you get to sleep on the dining room floor after the guests go to bed. In the morning, you can stay for breakfast and usually can get a similar deal - you get a shot at the leftover food in exchange for cleaning up afterward. Then you pack up your gear and keep hiking, grateful for a belly full of food and a night indoors.

I think the paying guests (whom hikers sometimes call 'Hut People') are fascinated by us. They marvel in disgust as the thru-hikers shovel down the leftover food, slurping and sopping... Occasionally growling if they get too close to one another's plates. They wonder why we're so glad to sleep on the floor like a dog. We, on the other side,  wonder why their packs are so huge and why they would hike in a cotton hoodie. The two groups, castes if you will, look at each other curiously, each wondering about the other's life.

I had a particularly positive experience at Lakes in the Clouds Hut near Mt. Washington. It's notable for it's size (they handle about 90 guests a night with a crew of about 7) and its location at the foot of Mt. Washington. The views from the hut itself are spectacular. I was fortunate to trade work for both dinner and breakfast. I had established a good rapport with the crew there (the Lakez Croo, they call themselves) and was glad for the experience. Before I left, the Hut Master asked me if I would do him a favor and deliver a message to the next Hut Master. I was headed there anyway and was glad to be able to help. He handed me a note written on cardboard that was taped tightly closed. The outside said 'Open Immediately'. When I finally got to the next hut, I presented the note to one of the crew there, a young lady who was busy baking fresh breads and desserts for that evening. This was the note:

I was so surprised! This was one of coolest things that has ever happened to me.The young lady invited me around to the kitchen and offered me a huge plate of pure goodness: She had been making a tray of brownies that morning and had poured too much mix into the pan. While baking, the brownie overflowed from the tray and she had cut off all the edges from around the tray and she served them to me with a hot cup of coffee and instructions to eat all of it. What a treat!

The long distance hiking community embraces the barter economy in many other ways. We share and trade food on the trail. A lady might give you a ride to the trail head if you offer to pump her gas for her. There are 'Hiker Boxes' at almost every hostel and hiker hang-out along the trail. These are similar, in theory, to the 'take a penny, leave a penny' trays you might see at a convenience store check out. You might take out a roll of TP and leave some AAA batteries. Or you might leave a package of Ramen noodles and take a pair of boot laces.

Goods and services exchanging hands without money. I wish it happened more often.